Hello everyone,
This morning we woke up to blue skies with a bit of cloud - hooray!
However, it was a top of 8 degrees today and the windchill made it feel a
lot colder. But at least it wasn’t raining… for now!
We set off to the Quebec Citadelle. The oldest structures in the complex
were from 1693 and built by the French, but the French never received
funding from their king to build a complete citadel. The British,
however, received funding to do so due to two attempted invasions by the
Americans in 1775 and 1812 after the British had taken over here from the French.
They built the citadel from 1820-1850, adding different layers of walls
and structures. Quebec was a very important stronghold at the time and
if it was to be invaded successfully it would mean the entire colony
would be lost. As a result, the citadel was created and was very
important. The word citadel comes from the Italian word ‘citadella’
meaning ‘small city’. The people inside of it could withstand a siege if
they needed to. Today the complex occupies about 20% of the old city
area, and many of the layers of walls are covered in grass as they were back when it was built for camouflage and to absorb cannonball fire.
As we walked up today, some workers were cleaning the path and glass
along the entrance. It’s been pretty clear during our visit to Quebec
City that summer is coming and everyone is getting ready for all of the
tourists that come with it. Whilst it’s unfortunately meant we miss the
changing of the guard and the underground ruins of a castle from 1620
that is closed ‘til Saturday, it’s once again meant we’ve had many
places to ourselves and enjoyed quiet, stress free streets. Yay for shoulder
season!
We joined the 10am tour of the Citadel. As with most places we’ve been
recently, when our guide Crystal asked where everyone was from, everyone
was either from Canada or the US except us and gasped when we said
Australia. “Oh that’s so far away!” Grateful as always for the annual
leave and long service leave opportunities we get at home that many
other countries don’t.
We walked around the complex on our tour and saw tunnels, a shooting gallery, a gun
powder magazine built by the French, a hospital that is now quarters for
the regiment that reside here (more on them soon), canons, a jail and a
monument to those that lost their lives taking Vimy Ridge in France in April
1917 after the French and English failed to do so. I find it so
interesting when my trips collide, and I visited Vimy and the Canadian
monument there in 2015 on my Western Front tour so this was one of those times.
After the tour we went into the museum for the Royal 22e Regiment, the 22nd Regiment (or 'Van Doos' in anglocised French representing the number 22) that were officially established in 1920 as the first regiment solely under French speaking command in Canada, so that their troops could understand orders given in French. We learned all about the campaigns the regiment was involved in including fighting on the Western front in WWI where they were awarded 18 battle honours (10 of which the fabulously interesting tour I did in 2015 visited), Italy in WWII, the Korean War and the war in Afghanistan as well as humanitarian and peacemaking efforts around the world in more recent years.
Despite being built to resist the Americans, once the citadel was complete, the US was then preoccupied with its own Civil War and Quebec and the US became allies. However the citadel was still useful even as recently as during the Great Depression when it housed many men who had lost their jobs due to the 25% unemployment and 40% wage drop at the time. They were tasked with restoring the city walls and citadel walls and paid by the government as part of the same initiative we read about in Alberta at that time. As well, during WWII when some German U boats were just 300km from Quebec, the citadel was still used to keep an eye out for enemy attacks. It was also where Churchill, Roosevelt and the Canadian Governor General and Prime Minister at the time met in 1943 to discuss D Day, and in 1944 to discuss the Allies' impending victory and ideas for the future. The 22nd regiment then helped liberate the Netherlands as WWII ended.
These days, the regiment is mostly known for the Changing of the Guard Ceremony conducted in French that they put on from June to September here, playing wonderful music and even having a white cashmere goat take part who is their mascot, called Batisse. Apparently Queen Victoria was gifted cashmere goats from a Persian Shah during her reign, and the first goat used by the regiment here was a gift from Queen Elizabeth that was a descendent of the Queen Victoria goats. They also wear bear fur hats and take part in many concerts etc as well as the Changing of the Guard. We enjoyed watching and listening to some videos of the ceremony at the museum.
Afterwards, we walked back to the hotel so Rob could get his beanie (it was colllllld today!) and then returned to our cafe from yesterday, Cafe La Maison Smith, where we had lunch and sat in the same window seats. We had planned to sit outside but it had started to snow whilst we ordered would you believe! So instead we enjoyed our croissants, coffees and chocolate cake inside whilst watching a school group compete in an 'Amazing Race' style activity in the square outside.
Next, we caught the ferry over to Levis briefly to enjoy the view of the old town of Quebec City from afar. The weather was so weird today. Due to the wind, it was sunny, then snowed, then was sunny again and then snowed again. We were treated to all different views of the city as a result. But due to it being so cold, we only left the ferry terminal very briefly in Levis before heading back across again. We then had a look in the Notre Dame of Quebec Cathedral which had a beautiful interior, and was the resting place for Saint Francois de Laval, the first Bishop of New France that was made a Saint by Pope Francis in 2014.
We had a rest in the warmth of the room before returning to the restaurant from our first night, Buffet L'Antiquaire where we enjoyed a final meal in Quebec City (while watching it snow again outside!). After dinner we went for a final walk along the Dufferin Terrace and visited a Christmas shop. I've been so impressed with how my hips have handled all of the stairs here, and would go as far as saying the stairs and hills have helped me to feel confident that I have strengthened my leg muscles up a fair bit on this trip ahead of my surgery when I get home.
Tomorrow
morning we are up at 3.20am (spew) for our 6am flight to Montreal and
then Boston that Air Canada rescheduled from the more civilised 9am. It
is what it is, hopefully we can sleep early! We've loved the food, culture and romantic streets here in Quebec City. This was the last new place I was visiting on the trip (last magnet purchase!), and today was our last day in Canada. We are feeling a bit sad at how fast that three weeks went. We have had such a wonderful time in Canada and have experienced it all from wildfire smoke to snow, frozen lakes to turquoise lakes, mountains to deserts and everything in between (including moose and two bears!). We already feel like we will be back one day together.
Love to all
Claire
Xoxox
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