Hello everyone,
Last night we each enjoyed a Parma at the Star Hotel, and then watched the
first half of Carlton vs St Kilda back in our unit. We were so tired after our
big ride that we didn’t make it to the third quarter!!
This morning we took advantage of the morning’s weather forecast and set off at
8.30am. The forecast said it wouldn’t start raining in Beechworth until 3pm, so
we wanted to do everything before this.
The last time I had properly visited Beechworth was with my family in 2006, and
Rob reckons his last visit was around then too. In 2016 on my way home from a
pre-season Collingwood match in Wagga, I dropped by to literally by a beesting
and then drive home. Needless to say, we were both looking forward to exploring
for the first time properly since we were kids!!
Our first stop was of course the original Beechworth Bakery. We each enjoyed a
beesting for breakfast, and had a laugh as we spilled icing sugar all down our
fronts. It reminded us of inhaling icing sugar from beignets in Jackson Square,
New Orleans, and having a massive coughing fit!!! COVID has of course effected
how they operate. You can’t sit in and eat, and one door is ‘in’ and one ‘out’,
with markers on the floor. But we still enjoyed our beestings nonetheless, even
though we had to eat them whilst leaning on Rob’s car.
Next we walked to the historical and cultural precinct, home to the former
government buildings. Beechworth is home to 30 buildings listed with the
National Trust (and has been dubbed the “finest group of provincial public
buildings in Victoria), and these were a few of them. They were built by
convicts. We walked past the Court House, Telegraph Station, Gold Office, Sub
Treasury, Chinese Protector’s Office, Warden’s Office, Police Stables and Stone
Lockup. Rob then went into the tourist information office. Due to COVID limits
on how many people could enter, I waited outside and we texted about what
walking tour we could join. He booked the 2.15pm one, and once a few people
left the building I came in to have a look too. To my delight they had some
socks with magpies on for sale – I just couldn’t help myself!!
We tried to join a Beechworth Gaol tour, but all were booked out. So we then
visited the Court House, which ironically was built by prisoners! Again,
travelling around during the pandemic sure makes visiting places interesting.
Upon entry we were asked for our postcode (at this stage, I wondered what would
happen if we quoted one of “the ten”). We then had to sign in, and the kind
lady behind the screen gave us a rundown of how we needed to follow arrows
around the building. The courthouse was operational in this building from 1858
to 1989, and is mostly original. Whatever has been restored has been done so in
a way that keeps with the original layout and features. Forty people were
sentenced to death here, and 13 of these executions were carried out on site.
Ned Kelly had one of his committal hearings conducted here, and Elizabeth Scott
who was the first woman to be hanged for murder in Victoria was sentenced here.
We walked through the Judge’s Room, the Library (which had books from 1823
making it the oldest law library in Australia) and the main court room before
exiting.
Next, we walked through the streets and did some window shopping before ending
up at the façade of the original hospital here. For a time, this was the only
hospital between Melbourne and Goulburn so it obviously received a fair amount
of visitors. As well, due to Beechworth being a huge gold rush town, they would
have been kept pretty busy during this time when disease outbreaks occurred. During
the gold rush days, the population here swelled to as many as 20,000 people and
then sharply fell to 2,000 soon after. Sadly, in the 1940s the hospital except for
the façade was demolished. In the post-World War II environment, all
salvageable materials were used for other required buildings due to shortages.
Next, we drove to nearby Yackandandah where we had a quick walk around to kill
time before our lunch reservation in Beechworth. The streets were getting
crowded by this stage and we got sick of having to basically walk into oncoming
traffic to distance from unaware people.
Our lunch reservation was at Bridge Road Brewers, and we were so glad we
booked. We felt terrible for the owner who kept having to turn people away even
though usually he would have fitted them in easily. Most people were
understanding, but some got their back up a little which we could see was
really awkward for him. We enjoyed a drink here, as well as the most delicious
pizza I’ve had since Italy two years ago. Mine had bocconcini, prawns, chilli
and tomato. Rob’s had smoked ham. Both were exceptional. Would highly recommend
booking in if you’re up this way!!
We then joined the 2.15pm walking tour. It was ok, but not the best one I have
ever done. To be fair, it was not the guide’s fault. We had a really weird lady
from Wangaratta and her daughter on it with us. The lady constantly interrupted
the guide to talk about herself. You could tell the guide felt awkward and didn’t
get through half of what he wanted to say. We did however see a cell Ned Kelly
and his Mum Ellen had each been held in, the ‘but but’ tree which had a trunk
about 10m wide, and the entrance to the Chinese Gardens. Rob and I were pretty
over it by the end because of the annoying lady, so were glad when it ended. We
queued up to enter the lolly shop, but unfortunately some local kids spoiled it
and we left the queue. Four teenagers stood centimetres away from an elderly
man coughing their guts up and swearing every second word. I had to whip out
the teacher voice, and after telling them they should be ashamed of themselves
we walked off. Instead, we visited the bakery again and bought a donut each.
Our final quick stops for the day were a drive past the Asylum, a drive past
Lake Sambell, and then a quick visit to the Cemetery. It had started to rain by
this point so Rob stayed in the car. I enjoyed finding the oldest graves I
could (1858 was the best I could do!) and I also found the Chinese section
interesting. The cemetery was built in 1856, and due to a lack of sanitation in
the gold fields and numerous disease outbreaks, began to fill up pretty
quickly. Between 1853-1860 in Beechworth, one child died per week on average
due to disease. The Chinese section of the cemetery had 2000 Chinese graves,
and housed two burning towers. When someone was being buried, paper tokens were
burnt and offerings such as pork and wine were included too. Fire crackers were
even set off as it was believed they would scare devils away.
Then we drove back to Bright in the rain. The rain set in for the
afternoon/evening at this point, and we commented on how lucky we had been for
most of the day to avoid the rain given that the forecast had looked pretty
bad.
Now we are getting ready to watch the footy (go pies!) and are having toast and
a donut for dinner.
Love to all
Claire
Xoxox




























