Friday, July 12, 2024

Final day in Japan

Hello all for the final time from Japan,

We checked out this morning, left our luggage at reception and stopped quickly at the Hachiko statue before catching the metro to Teamlab Borderless, a digital art museum. This was something else we were meant to do in March 2020 on our original trip. I can still remember getting the email in February 2020 that they were closing due to Covid and feeling like our trip was starting to unravel. Anyway, it shut at that location in August 2022 due to redevelopment of the building it was in, and reopened earlier this year at a new location.

We spent a fantastic three hours here. There is no map, the idea of “borderless” is you are meant to wander around and discover different rooms and displays. After an hour or so we kept finding the same rooms and felt we were going in circles, so I found a map online someone had drawn by hand that helped us find the last four or so rooms we hadn’t seen which was great. All of the displays were so great we didn’t want to miss any. There were displays of flowers, birds, all different colours and much more. Each room even smelled different like what was being projected eg flowers. In the main room with the ‘hill’, the birds and flowers even flew or blossomed where people were leaning on the wall. So clever! I think my favourite room was the one with balls/lanterns hanging from the roof that changed colour. They made me feel like I was in the Hall of Prophecies in Harry Potter.

One totally unexpected part was the tearoom way down the end of the hallways inside. We had a seat and bought some matcha coconut ice cream and a cold tea each. Somehow, once you placed your teacup and ice cream bowl on the counter in front of you, flowers and leaves immediately started blooming, and butterflies flying. When you took a sip/lifted your cup, the petals of the flowers would scatter and fly. Then when you placed it back down another flower would bloom. It was like magic!

We headed out at about 1pm and the queue was huge, and we once again appreciated having booked a morning time slot as it hadn’t been too busy despite booking out 1-2 weeks in advance. We then walked to lunch, and en route could see the red and white Tokyo Tower in the distance. It was built for the 1964 Olympic Games as a TV tower, and at the time was the tallest building in the city. These days it’s dwarfed by many others around it, but it was still impressive.

We had a delicious lunch at a place called Burger Revolution which we had intended to eat at in Osaka, but the one there had had weird opening hours. They serve burgers made of the famous Kobe beef, so we partook. All of us really enjoyed our burger and chips. The meat was delicious and not rich.

We caught the bus back to the hotel and rested a little before heading off to the airport via the JR line and airport train. Prior to arriving at Shibuya station we had had a fantastic day, and I wish I could say it continued. But we were once again hit by the “train station aggression” that we had experienced two days prior. Dad was carrying mine and his cases up a flight of stairs, and a lady was so absorbed in her phone that she walked into one of our cases as she wasn’t looking. Everyone kept walking with the flow of the crowd. I didn’t even notice she had walked into it as I was holding my belly and concentrating on where to step on each stair. For some reason, she cut across me, and shoved me hard in the side. I have no idea how she thought I was involved or why it was anyone but her fault. I lost my balance for a moment and I think I only regained it because I had both hands free. So I pushed her lightly on the shoulder and told her to get away from me, how dare you touch me etc. I was in such a shock as I had no idea what was going on. She started screaming at us even once up on the platform. It was the kind of thing that just sends you into shock and doesn’t make any sense. I actually felt really scared as with volatile people like that you just don’t know what they’ll do next. We got on the train and away from her thankfully and we were off. I was sorry that that was our final experience of Japan right before heading to the airport.

So to finalise I will say - we’ve seen and done some great things here. We’ve been lucky with the weather. The food has been delicious, and outside of the big busy parts of cities we have had a wonderful time. But if I was to ever come back (incidents such as the above have put me well off!) I would avoid Shibuya like the plague and maybe even skip Tokyo all together. Contrary to the reputation of respect and kindness we hear of at home, many people we came across in Shibuya etc in Tokyo are so absorbed in their phones and with making their train that they’ll literally mow people down for their own benefit. Luckily outside of areas like this though, people have been really accommodating, friendly and helpful. I think Kyoto, Koyasan and Hiroshima were my favourite places. I need to focus on the fact that 95% of the people we came across were great.

On another positive note, I’m really proud of how my body held up on this trip. This was the most walking I have done since I had my hip surgery done in June last year. I kept getting Facebook memories on this trip of my Paris/London trip two years ago, and over there unless I took three doses of painkillers and ibuprofen per day I was in excruciating pain that even brought me to tears at times. While I’ve felt uncomfortable and tired at times, I’ve been able to participate in just about everything I wanted to. Taking breaks, having great public transport available and having Mum and Dad help me carry my suitcase onto and off of trains has really helped too. I’ve really surprised myself at now 28 weeks pregnant. I guess it’s different to work though as we got to be on our schedule, choosing what we felt like doing each day and taking breaks when we needed them.

So I’m signing off for the last time in a little while. Next time I’m overseas I’ll have a child which despite feeling them kick me a lot these days feels absolutely wild! I’m excited for the new challenge, and I hope Rob and I can take them on some adventures with us before too long.

Love to all
Claire
Xoxox

PS: Mum and I are watching Collingwood vs Geelong online at the moment, but we will board before the game is over. Go pies!

 

















































 

Thursday, July 11, 2024

Akihabara, Ueno Park, Tokyo National Museum & Geisha dinner

Hi everyone,

We had another easy morning today which was nice. After a lie in, Mum and I went and bought a few things at Daiso near our hotel. We do have Daiso in Australia, but it’s a Japanese shop and we figured there’d be a lot more local things available and everything would be a fraction of the price. We were right! I bought some cute snacks to take home to Rob amongst other things.

Once back, the three of us then went and had Acai bowls for breakfast at the same place we went yesterday. Delicious once again! We then caught the train to Akihabara. We were actually meant to do a walking tour here today, but we decided we would rather tour around ourselves as we had done a few walking tours recently. This area is known as the “geek district”. There were lots of arcades, gaming shops, animal and maid cafes etc. We walked through a few, and I used a capsule machine to get a toy of a Pokémon character Adam and I used to play as on my Nintendo 64 in ‘Super Smash Brothers’.

We took our time walking along and ended up at Ueno Park. We had come here on our first full day in Tokyo at the start of the trip but didn’t explore too much due to rain. Today this is a huge park with lots of museums, a zoo and a pond, but centuries ago it was the site where samurais fought against the Meiji Emperor’s army in honour of the Edo Shogunate in 1868 when the Meiji Restoration and change of power occurred. We spent our time in the park today revisiting the pond we went to two weeks ago, which had lots more water lilies in bloom this time around, and then going to the Tokyo National Museum. As we approached the museum there was a sudden downpour of rain which ended as quickly as it started.

The Tokyo National Museum opened in 1872, and we spent just over two enjoyable hours here. Mum kindly wheeled me around in a wheelchair as the museum offered these for free, which really saved my legs and meant I could enjoy it more. We started in a building containing the Horyu-ji Treasures, beautiful statues and figures found at a temple in Nara dating back to the 600s. Then we went to the main building which housed two levels of sculptures, lacquer work, metal work, ceramics, samurai swords and armour, beautiful kimonos, and even had a block printing station where you could make your own postcard using five separate stamps. This was a lot of fun and the end product looked great! Mum and I kept commenting on how much Nan would have loved the museum, the lacquer work, ceramics and kimonos in particular. She loved beautiful Japanese items and even owned some herself despite never visiting. Finally, we explored the gardens which were nice. We then caught the train to Asakusa which is where we stayed at the start of our trip. We enjoyed this area a lot more than Shibuya so were happy to come back to its more peaceful streets and familiarity. We enjoyed an ice cream and took our time walking through the streets.

Afterwards, we walked 20 minutes to a restaurant for a dinner we had booked. This dinner was meant to be at the start of our trip, but got rescheduled due to not meeting minimum numbers. It was a dinner to meet two geishas and converse with them. It was us, an Indian family of three and six Americans. Meeting the geishas was great, particularly the first lady that sat with us (I didn’t catch her name but she’s in the blue kimono in my photos). She asked if I wasn't drinking because I'm a teenager, which gave me a good laugh! Her English was great and she was very easy to talk to and kind. Unfortunately that’s where the positives ended, and we left feeling disappointed that this was our dinner on our final night. The food was flavourless, and despite saying I couldn’t eat uncooked seafood, 2/3 of the meal was barely warm shrimp, squid, fish and clams. I couldn’t eat much at all, and Mum and Dad said that portion of the meal wasn’t very good anyway. But we did enjoy talking to the geishas, talking to the Indian family we sat with, and Dad got involved in some of the Japanese games they had people play.

We headed back to Shibuya and tried to go to a rooftop bar, but the staff lied to us about the expensive cover charge so we ended up leaving. It was all pretty confusing and kind of summarised what Shibuya has been like - busy, loud, expensive and overwhelming. We laughed it off, and are looking forward to Teamlab Borderless (a digital art museum) being a really positive and enjoyable end to our trip tomorrow. I'll be writing one last blog after that.

Love to all
Claire
Xoxox