Saturday, December 31, 2016

Williamsburg

Hi all!

Today we decided to have a fairly easygoing day due to going out for New Years tonight. I set an alarm for 9am, but I woke up at 7.50am. This made me happy as I counted down the new year with Melbourne at 8am!

The four of us set off at about 10.30am and caught the train the short distance to Williamsburg, the hipster neighbourhood of Brooklyn. The area has a large Jewish population so a lot was closed due to it being Saturday. However, we still enjoyed our walk around the neighbourhood. We spotted a few hipsters too!

One of the main roads had a railway over the top of it the entire way which was pretty depressing, but once we ventured away from there it was much better. We loved the streets and agreed the area looked like the typical "Brooklyn" image portrayed in movies and TV shows. Williamsburg often is nicknamed 'Little Berlin' due to its vibrant nightlife and grunge culture. 

We stopped at a very busy bagel shop and Shannon, Alisha and I each enjoyed a salami, cheese and garlic cream cheese bagel. It was delicious! The shop had all different colours of bagels, and about 20 or so types of cream cheese. Some of them sounded nice (garlic, sun dried tomato) and some of them made me sick thinking about them (cotton candy, spiced pumpkin, Oreo cookie). Our bagels were amazing though! 

We kept on walking and got very cold at one point, Jess started drinking her coffee through the folds of her scarf! It's really sunny today but bitter cold. I think I'm going to wear thermals under my outfit tonight and then take them off later and put them in my bag. 

We crossed to the middle of the Williamsburg Bridge and enjoyed the lovely, sunny view and then walked the half an hour or so back to our flat. We went through a massive Hasidic Jewish neighbourhood, passing many people on their way to and from the synagogue for Sabbath. 

Now we are in the flat in our pyjamas (even though it's only 2.30pm!) having a rest until we leave to go out tonight. There are going to be lots of police on patrol in the Times Square area, we are going to a club right near the square. Our ticket includes all food and drinks and we are looking forward to a fun night filled with good company and music!

Tomorrow sadly I leave these three beautiful people, but I'm excited about heading to Toronto to see my friend Courtney who has moved there. I'll post tomorrow night my time all about New Year's Eve and my journey to Toronto. I can't believe our ten days in New York City have gone so quickly, but I have had such an amazing time and am really grateful I got to spend it with Jess, Alisha and Shannon. There has been no tension at all, we have laughed so much we cried on many occasions and been a great team at figuring out where to go and what to do. I will never forget it and can't wait to see them all again somewhere else in the world one day!

Love to all
Claire
Xoxox 



Friday, December 30, 2016

The Bronx, The Ride

I'm Hi all,


Our destination today was The Bronx, the only borough of New York City that is technically on the mainland of the USA. 


When I was researching where to go and what to do in NYC before our trip, I was a bit unsure about going to The Bronx. The only perceptions I had in my mind were that it was a rough area and that "Jenny from the block" (Jennifer Lopez) grew up here doing it tough. How wrong I was on both counts!!


We met our tour guide, Alexandra, in Grand Central. She grew up in The Bronx and just like Steve yesterday, you could tell immediately she was very passionate about changing the negative stigma that to this day surrounds The Bronx. Her tour company is called Bronx Historical Tours and I would highly recommend you look her up here if you're coming. 


On the train, Alexandra told us that 99% of Staten Island voted for Trump. Shannon went from saying he would like to live there just two days ago to saying he now didn't think he would like it. Haha.


We caught the subway up north with Alex and the two other people on our tour, and then arrived in The Bronx. The borough got its name because in 1639, a Swedish man named Jonas Bronck arrived with his family and settled there on what was then farmland. Hence - "The Broncks". The area didn't officially become a borough and get this name until 1898 though, when politicians decided they wanted more people voting so created a new borough. 


The Bronx is an incredibly culturally diverse area. Initially many Germans and Jews went there to live. However, in the 60s and 70s The Bronx fires happened and drove a lot of these people out. Rent control was put in place during this time in order to have control over how much landlords could charge their tenants. A limit was set, and after some time due to inflation, this meant that the rent being paid by tenants to their landlords wasn't yielding them any profit. In fact, they started to make losses. So the landlords decided that instead of continuing to lose money, they would hire arsonists to burn their flats down and claim the insurance money. This started a chain reaction and many other landlords followed suit, with basically an entire neighbourhood of The Bronx (Longwood) burning to the ground. This left many homeless and obviously created a rough and violent image for the area. 


To try and keep and attract people in the area, the government began selling homes for $1 to try and attract people back and build it up again. This is an interesting contrast, because Alexandra said that today, developers are continuously hassling people in the area to sell up shop. So no one used to want to live here, now everyone wants in! There are plans for a high rise condominium complex to begin being built soon. 


Alexandra told us she has been running the walking tours for almost six years because she wants to change the perception. She said when she first started running them, people seemed anxious and nervous about travelling up this way. The Methadone Clinic we passed immediately after leaving the train station probably didn't help!!


We began walking up the Grand Concourse, the main road in The Bronx that our tour centred around. Apparently it was created in 1892. Along the way, we saw many people working in the streets digging up pipes etc. The area is being fixed up because the local government are interested in attracting developers. Apparently residents here are quite resentful towards that, because the standard of pipes etc has been very low for years, but nothing has been done about them until now when developers are offering money. We also saw the 'Walk of Fame' plaques listing famous people who grew up in the area. Apparently Jennifer Lopez told the council they needed to pay her $40,000 in order to have her name on one. She preaches that she grew up hungry and poor, but Alexandra says she did this just to sell albums. She grew up in the wealthy part of The Bronx, went to a private school and her Dad was a judge. People in The Bronx are also resentful towards her because her music and a book she released reinforce the perception that the area is still full of gangs, drugs and violence. Apparently some other celebrities are embarrassed to admit they're from The Bronx such as Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren which is a bit of a shame. 


65% of the residents of The Bronx are Latino, with the majority of them coming from Puerto Rico. Other people that live in the area come from west Africa, Asia, Pakistan, Italy and Hispanic countries. 


We passed a hospital and Alexandra let us know that hospitals provide the most jobs in The Bronx. She said the World first surgery a few years ago separating conjoined twins was done in The Bronx!


Next, we passed the post office. It was a huge beautiful building that has now been shut down due to the dwindling use of the postal system these days. Luckily, it's being turned into a market using and preserving the exact same building. Apparently it has beautiful murals inside. 


Over the road we saw a Häagen Dazs ice cream shop. We were shocked to find out that this company started in The Bronx, not in Scandinavia like you would believe. The man who started it chose the name to lead people to believe that the ice cream was Scandinavian. Who knew!!


We passed an urban farm where kids who have done wrong complete community service, and the ginormous courthouse. And then we had a quick break inside The Bronx Museum of Art and chatted to Alexandra. 


After our stop, we passed the building in which Alexandra grew up. She told us funny stories about wandering the streets trying to spot Yankees players in her childhood and what life was like for her. 


Our last proper stop before the end of the tour was the Andrew Freedman House, a mansion owned by billionaire Andrew Freedman who let 130 rich people affected by the Great Depression live there in the style they were used to. We saw the inside which is now occupied by art exhibitions and very friendly staff. There were some high school age boys working in the garden as well who wished us all a very happy new year. I assure you, the people up here were all lovely. 


We were treated to some more art outside the house, this time street art. Then we continued on through a park and finished our tour outside Yankee Stadium, home of the New York Yankees. This stadium was built in 2009, the older original one has now been knocked down. I'm not fussed that baseball season doesn't start until April, sitting through a San Fran Giants vs Texas Rangers match in 2005 was enough baseball for me!!!


Alexandra took us to a local, off the beaten track drafthouse where Shannon enjoyed a few beers and the rest of us enjoyed lunch. I had a yummy mac and cheese, and the prices were about 2/3 of food prices on Manhattan island. 


We made a quick stop at the Yankees shop where Shannon bought a baseball cap, then we caught the subway back to Manhattan. 


We went and picked up our tickets for the New Year's Eve party we are attending off Times Square tomorrow. We decided that standing in the freezing cold waiting for the ball to drop unable to pee, eat or move for 14 hours wasn't our thing, so we've booked a party instead! Got the tickets and we are all really excited now!


We then went to Bryant Park and met up with Shannon and Alisha's housemate that they used to live with in Brisbane, Elsa. She had her one year old boy with her whose birthday it was today! On our way to the park, IT FINALLY STARTED SNOWING!!! We had been pretty cold today but attributed that to being in The Bronx with less high rises blocking the wind. But turns out it was cold enough to snow, hoorah! Not enough to be annoying, just enough to make us scream like small children and all take photos and videos - haha!


Our final destination for today was 'The Ride' bus. A friend from home had recommended this, and it's hard to describe. A 1.5 hour bus journey with seats facing out towards the side of the bus. You go around hearing comedy, facts about various landmarks and enjoying street performers that randomly burst into song and dance. It was absolutely hilarious and I laughed so much I cried! Our favourite street performer was a guy who rapped for a solid three minutes, and mentioned our group name (Shannon's last name) and Australia multiple times! We saw people doing ballet, someone singing outside Carnegie Hall and lots more. We had lots of fun with it and joined in the singing, dancing and quizzes. Some of the people near us looked like they had a bad smell under their nose. Their loss!


We ran from the bus to the subway to avoid the cold (it is so cold tonight!) and are now back in the apartment on the way home. 


Midnight in Melbourne on New Year's Eve will be just 8am on New Year's Eve day here in New York, so I would like to get in early and wish you all a safe and happy new year. Thank you to my beautiful friends and family who (as they always do) made this year a great one. I can't wait for lots of great times in 2017!


Love to all

Claire

Xoxox



Thursday, December 29, 2016

Chrysler Building, Grand Central Terminal, Midtown tour

Hello all!

Last night after I posted, Alisha, Shannon and I walked to downtown Brooklyn and had Mexican for dinner at a place called 'Chavela's'. The food was amazing and we cashed in on the happy hour drinks, ordering two each at once (or three in Shannon's case!). The waitress thought that was hilarious!!

Today we headed off in the rain towards our first stop of the day, the Chrysler Building. We warmed up at Starbucks along the way, then headed in. Built by the architect William Van Alen in 1930, this building is 1046 feet tall and was built for the Chrysler automobile company. It is an Art Deco building, and in true Art Deco fashion the buildings from this era have characteristics on their exterior that pertain to their function. So the Chrysler building has hood ornaments from cars as gargoyles, the paramount films building has stars etc. 

The public can only access the foyer, which had a beautiful Christmas tree and the ceiling is covered in a gorgeous mural. 

After this, we went and ticked off another typical thing to do in America - eat McDonald's. Personally I was underwhelmed, the meal size was exactly the same and my cheeseburger was cold. Don't think I will be eating there again, though I wasn't expecting much!

Our next stop was Grand Central Terminal, where we had a look around and then joined our 75 minute guided tour. Our guide's name was Steve who was a volunteer, and you could instantly tell he was very passionate about the building and its history. We were really taken aback by the main concourse with its beautiful marble features and the sea green ceiling. 

The station is called Grand Central Terminal because trains terminate there (though the subway runs through underground too). The building opened in 1913. The ceiling that we were so impressed with shows the signs of the zodiac, and before 1998 this was all covered with black soot and gunk due to years of exposure to cigarette smoke and car fumes. They left one brick like this to compare after they cleaned it (see photos below). 

Steve spoke of the "bad old days" for Grand Central, during which New Yorkers referred to it as a 'covered times square' (Times Square used to be dodgy and horrible back in the day). There were huge ads up in this time, a betting agency inside the main concourse and it was overall gaudy and tacky. Thankfully that was fixed a bit later on. 

In the 60s, the original Penn Station was knocked down due to no money being available to keep up preservation costs. Apparently Penn was even more beautiful than Grand Central, so this stirred up public outcry and with the help of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and her passion for saving old buildings, it was saved. Thankfully it was saved as is, because PanAm offered to fund the unkept if they could build a 55 storey building on top. Yuck! The Municipal Art Society managed to get a protection act passed in 1965 that helped to save future buildings also. 

Grand Central is a beautiful 'Beaux Arts' style of architecture, which means there are lots of very decadent ornamental pieces around the station. 

A man named Commodore Vanderbilt (as he was nicknamed), grew up poor in Staten Island and became rich throughout his life via his boat and train companies. He created the original building on the site of today's Grand Central, which was later rebuilt to today's version by his son William. There are lots of acorns decorating Grand Central and this is due to the Vanderbilt family motto being "great oaks from little acorns grow". Today there are many buildings around the city that the Vanderbilts are responsible for building, they were a very rich family. 

We continued walking to different parts of the station just as 600,000-900,000 people do per day. My favourite part was the Whispering Gallery, where you stand on the opposite side of the room to each other and the curved roof carries the sound and means you can hear what they are saying as if they are right next to you. I had a conversation with Alisha! 

Our tour ended in the station and we had just over an hour until our next one began in the same place. We sat in the main concourse and decided to people watch. I then suggested we pass the time by writing down as many of the 50 US states as possible. We sat there for a while thinking of as many as we could and then went downstairs to the food court. In the process, a man overheard us and checked our list. We had written Cleveland and New England as states which he said weren't right, but other than that he was impressed. Once back upstairs after thinking of a few more, we had 49 out of 50. We racked our brains but couldn't think of the 50th and eventually conceded and looked it. Montana was the only state we couldn't think of (apologies Montana!). I'm very proud of our effort! 

The only negative part of our people watching session was when a lady left four bags unattended next to us and walked off. There are ads everywhere here telling you to report if this happens. So Alisha did, and the cops did nothing! But nothing happened so all was ok!

Then we joined our tour of Midtown with the same company as the free tour the other day - Sandemans New Europe. We were pleased to have Zev as our guide again! It was only the four of us and two guys from Singapore on the tour. 

We started inside Grand Central and once again had a great couple of hours with Zev learning interesting facts we wouldn't have known otherwise. It did rain a bit but we were fairly lucky overall. The reason railway expansions happened so quickly once they started here is because the distance from LA to New York is the same as London to Baghdad. How crazy is that!!

We walked past the New York public library and Bryant Park behind it with its beautiful ice skating rink. Here Zev told us that the Empire State Building observation deck came about because it opened smack in the middle of the Great Depression and remained 35% empty in terms of offices for a few years. The building made $1 million from the observation deck in its first year which kept it afloat during this hard time. 

We got to Times Square and found out it got its name because the Herald newspaper had Herald Square named after it, and the Times got jealous and wanted the same. They purchased the building the New Year's Eve ball now sits on top of in order to achieve this, and have left it mainly empty but make a huge profit from the advertisements displayed all over it. 

The ball drop tradition began in 1984 when the city brainstormed what it could do instead of letting fireworks off from the top of this building which would have been a massive fire hazard. One million people per year gather in Times Square to watch the ball drop, standing in the cold and unable to go to the toilet. We've booked a party in a building off the square, I'm a bit nervous about the crowds but at least we will be warm and have bathrooms available!! Apparently two million turned out in 1999/2000 due to the Y2K craze. 

We walked through Broadway past various theatres, then onto the Rockefeller area and ended up near the 21 Club, a speakeasy that apparently a lot of celebrities flock to to this day. There were jockey statues out the front that apparently rich bar frequenters purchased to display their jockey's banners of the horse they owned. This is how New York earned its title "The Big Apple", it was associated with a horse race and the name stuck to the city itself. 

Our tour ended outside St Patrick's Cathedral, a huge Catholic Church built in response to the huge numbers of Irish immigrants that came to New York. We passed anoth film location from 'Gossip Girl' - the New York Palace Hotel. Cold and hungry, we got the subway back to Brooklyn. It's now Alisha's Mum's birthday I'm Australia so we stopped and used the good wifi at the station to sing her happy birthday via video call. We got quite a few funny looks!! 

I ate my leftover pizza for dinner. Now we are sitting down to watch some 'How I Met Your Mother' - one of my all time favourite TV shows that's set in New York. 

Love to all
Claire
Xoxox