Chivay and Colca Valley

Hola everyone,

No photos today. I've spent two hours trying to get this to upload but the wifi sucks. I'll try tomorrow but worst case all the photos will be up in two days - promise! A real shame as today was so beautiful. But never mind. Those of you who have me on Facebook will have seen lots of them already :) anyway here's today's post.....

Today we had breakfast and then we set off at 9am. We have a local guide for the next 2-3 days called Freddie who is Peruvian and so friendly! He's full of information. 

Our drive was about six hours all together including stops. We started in Arequipa which was already 2300m above sea level. Freddie told us about the three volcanoes; Misti, Pichu Pichu and something Peruvian that meant 'The Bride' because of its snow coverage. He said every day in Arequipa there are ten small tremors that you can't really feel. And apparently the last time Misti erupted was in the 1400s, and scientists reckon it erupts every 500 years. So any day now....(hopefully not while we are here!). 

We drove into the desert and were treated to some stunning scenery all day. Our first stop of the day was at a little shop to buy coca leaves. These apparently help with altitude sickness if you chew them, and at 2 soles a bag (about 80c) I wasn't going to pass them up. Last thing I need is altitude sickness bothering me too!! Only thing is that technically coca leaves are used to make cocaine. Only 1/20 of the leafs alkaloids are actually used to produce cocaine. You aren't allowed to take the leaves across the border, but G Adventures don't let you do anything illegal or dangerous and we have been assured it's ok because the quinoa ash means you don't have any effects of the cocaine. 

Our next couple of stops were to look at animals. Up here there are pucuñas which are brown and white and quite skinny, llamas which have large necks and ears and alpacas which have slightly smaller necks and ears. Pucuñas apparently produce better wool than alpacas. Our bus stopped when we saw some wild ones, but pucuñas are very shy so they ran off quite quickly. Later on ewe were lucky enough to run into a farmer and his kids taking the alpacas and llamas out for a walk. We got up quite close to them and took some photos. Very cool!

Our next stop was in a tiny village called Patahuasi meaning 'high house'. Here we were able to try one of four teas, or have a mixture of all four teas. The leaves used for the tea were coca (to help with altitude sickness), muña (good for digestion), chachacoma (good for headaches) and otros (good for coughs and sore throats - my best friend!!). That and the salt water have helped me to feel slightly better with my throat today, let's hope it keeps up :) The tea was quite nice. I also bought some sweet potato chips (yum!!) and a 100% alpaca wool scarf with some cool patterns on it (photo below). It was 35 soles, about $12-13. I'm not meant to be buying many souvenirs due to money and space in my case, but it doesn't take up much room and I figured it would be good for the Inca Trail and good for the UK!

We got back on the bus and started out ascent to our highest point for the day, a lookout at 4910m. This is equivalent to nearly 16,000 feet above sea level. Crazy to think that's how high up I skydived from in 2009!!!! I got out of the bus and it was windy, but I loved being cold. I've been so warm recently and it was actually nice to feel cold. I didn't run, but even after walking around noticed that I was panting and had to breathe rather deeply. This far (touch wood) the altitude doesn't seem to be affecting me that much. Carla has told us if we are ok today we will be fine for the inca trail as the highest point on it is 4200m on day 2. The funny thing is that all our packets of chips and sunscreen etc are all partially exploding due to the altitude. I've already copped sunscreen all over my bag and a face full of water - haha! 

The views at the lookout were stunning. You could see about five volcanoes in the distance, some with snow on top. And there were stacks of rocks everywhere which apparently are peoples' offerings to the volcanoes to make their wishes come true. 

Due to being so high up, we were shown how to chew the coca leaves with a small portion of quinoa ash and sugar as well to help release the juices. I don't like the taste! But I will admit it did help me feel a little less strange. Don't think I'll be using it unless I feel horrible though. I have heard that everyone reacts to altitude differently, but those who react badly have said it's like being hungover and carsick at the same time - oh goodie!!! Please please please not me!!

We kept driving for another 40 minutes to our stop for the next two nights, Chivay. Along the way we had a really lovely view of the town from above. Once we arrived in town we had lunch at a restaurant. We had a buffet for 28 soles ($11-12). If you had told me the day before I left that I would be eating buffet lunches on this trip I probably would have laughed in your face. My stomach has been really awful the last couple of months (sheesh - with that and my throat I'm starting to sound like a hypochondriac!!) but the last few days the pains in my stomach have completely gone. I don't know whether I'm not stressed anymore or whether the antibiotics directed at my throat helped my tummy, but regardless I am so grateful that's gone. The food was AMAZING! We had all sorts of meats, salads and desserts. I had two plates of main meal and dessert - gotta get my money's worth so I don't need dinner ;) Poor Anthony on our tour has had food poisoning for a few days now. I remember that from Asia, and while I feel really sorry for him, I am so glad it isn't me!!! *Touch wood*

We arrived in Chivay which is the largest town in the Colca Valley. About 5000 people live here and it's a really cute and quaint town. Our hotel is like a mini village and the beds are the comfiest we've had so far - hooray!!

Freddie took us on a 90 minute walking tour this afternoon of the town and surrounding hills. He said this was a mini practice for the inca trail. It's such a lovely town here, we saw the main square and some farmers herding their sheep in for the day. We all got quite out of breath going up hill but we will get used to it! Having about 5-6 days of "training" in the altitude will help heaps. 

We watched the sunset which was beautiful and then tonight we had a toasted sandwich and a coffee in a small coffee shop - just what I needed! And now I'm off to watch a movie with the girls. :)

I'm feeling a lot better today. The salt seems to be helping a bit and I've adopted the attitude that I am going to get better. I have to get better because I have ten months ahead of me, so therefore I will! All will be ok. I'm so happy that I've made such good friends in Courtney, Rachel and Ash. We had all felt a little homesick the last couple of days but we have fun together, laugh together and have each other to chat to if needed. The tour group is also becoming a bit closer with each day that passes so that's good!

Tomorrow we head to Colca canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world (deeper than the Grand Canyon apparently!). W are going condor spotting there and I'm really excited!!

Lots of love to all from 3600m above sea level!

Claire

Xoxox