Saturday, January 15, 2022

Kampong Glam and a river cruise

Hi everyone, Today we caught a train to Lavender MRT station to begin a 2.5 hour walking tour of Kampong Glam. This is Singapore’s Muslim quarter, and ‘Kampong’ means ‘compound’ in Malay while ‘Glam’ comes from ‘gelam’, a type of tree in the area which was used for boat making, food and medicine. It’s been a long time since I have last done a walking tour overseas. My last one was in New Orleans in January 2020. I really enjoy the perspective a local guide brings on a walking tour, pointing out things you never would have noticed or known to visit. Our guide for our tour today was Grace. She had a little device with headphones for us all so that she could use a microphone, as she (like all of us) had to wear a mask the whole tour. We expected to be in a group of five as everything is limited to groups of five here, but we were five groups of five. Everyone on the tour was local except us, and we were placed in a group of five with a German couple who are living and working here. They had to do three weeks of hotel quarantine when they arrived, in a balcony-less and window-less hotel. Yuck! The MRT station our tour began at was called Lavender for ironic reasons. This area used to be made up of plantations, and the fertiliser at the time was what was easiest to find - human waste. As a result, when Singapore was modernised and the plantation was no longer there, someone put forward the name Lavender for the metro station as a joke, and it stuck! Grace explained to us that back in the day, living in a kampong was like living in a little village. No one locked their doors, everyone knew one another and it was a very community vibe. In the 1960, the Housing Development Board knocked down and demolished the kampongs. This was sad for those who had grown up in such communities, but Grace said over time, people adjusted and were happy to have more modern amenities at their disposal. High rise apartment buildings replaced the kampongs, and people had easy access to fresh waster, waste disposal (no flush toilets until 1987 here!) and shops etc nearby. In the beginning, the lower floors were more popular as the lifts only stopped on floors 1, 5 and 11. However, today’s lifts stop on all floors so the top floors are the most popular.

Due to the overpopulation of Singapore, they don’t really have any agriculture or any industries or exports like that. Instead, in 1966 they took a risk just one year into independence and borrowed $45 million from the world bank. This was used to build their container port, which is now the world’s leading hub.

Along our tour, we saw people playing croquet, people drawing and some silky bantams. We stopped outside the Hajjah Fatimah Mosque, which was unusually named after a woman. Hajjah Fatimah was a wealthy lady married to a Bugis prince. The Bugis people were originally from Sulawesi but were driven out of there by the Dutch and settled all over the place including Singapore. They were very good traders, map drawers and ship builders. Hajjah Fatimah lost her husband at a young age, and afterwards built the mosque and houses for the poor.
We had a quick rest stop at the Malaysian Heritage Centre which was one of the former royal palaces here for Sultan Hussein (the one who came to an agreement with Stamford Raffles in 1819). We then hit what is really the centre of Kampong Glam these days. Originally, this area stretched all the way to Lavender which was why we had started there, but today it is much smaller. We could see the beautiful Sultan Mosque. We could visit inside in 2012, but not these days due to disinfection occurring between prayer sessions. Something of note about its appearance is the fact that bottle ends make up the black band around its onion dome. Wouldn’t have noticed if not for Grace!!
Our tour ended at a local restaurant where we had an included lunch. Dad had beef, Mum and I had chicken. It came with tofu, yummy sauces and rice. We also enjoyed some Singaporean desserts too, which were strange consistencies and very bright colours! It was really interesting spending some time in the Muslim quarter. It felt like I was in Turkey or Egypt at some points. What was also interesting was being on a walking tour where the majority were locals and not tourists. It was nice hearing people on the tour's added perspectives during the tour. I believe the reason so many locals were on the tour is that there is a 'Singapore Resdiscover' voucher scheme for locals that ends soon. People are using up their vouchers on tours, attractions etc. on the weekend.

Afterwards, Mum, Dad and I walked back to Haji Lane that we had visited on the tour. It was full of cute little shops and impressive murals on the walls and shops. Sadly, there were also a lot of empty shops, I assume due to the pandemic.

We headed back for a quick rest in the room, before joining a riverboat cruise from Clarke Quay. It was lovely sitting with the open window feeling the breeze on our faces. We sailed all the way up the river seeing the buildings that have become so familiar over the last few days. It was lovely and sunny so we were happy we were undercover in the shade! On the boat we learned that the super trees at the gardens we visited on Thursday are not only pretty, they absorb solar energy, collect rain water and excrete humidity and moisture from the domes we went into. Funnily, someone had added a mask to one of the children on the sculpture we liked along the river on Tuesday. Couldn't resist taking a photo!

Finally, we enjoyed an ice cream by the river. We are having a rest for a few hours now, I might go for a swim soon. Tonight we are off to the Night Safari Zoo which will be cool.

Love to all
Claire
Xoxox






































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