The Great Barrier Reef

Hi everyone,

After I wrote yesterday, we had fish and chips for dinner and then went and met up with my aunt and uncle Ian and Robyn at their amazing villa. It was great to see them and catch up! We will be having lunch with them and my cousin and her family on Sunday.

We slept really well, our room here in Port Douglas is really comfortable. This morning we packed a bag and headed off to the Quicksilver jetty for a day out at the Great Barrier Reef. I have snorkelled the reef twice before as a kid, but Rob never has. He was very excited, and I was excited to experience the reef again, this time with him.

Quicksilver did the best job out of any company/attraction so far with COVID restrictions. They had strict distancing and cleaning measures in place. The lady when we checked in asked us if we had been to any hotspots in the last 14 days. "We've only been in Melbourne." "Yay - I am so happy for you that you are here!" They also allocated everybody a space inside the boat that was theirs for the day. We were impressed. You could sit outside as you pleased as there was plenty of space and fresh air. As it was a beautiful day, we mostly sat outside anyway.

Our 1.5 hour/80km boat journey from Port Douglas today took us to Agincourt Reef 3, which is one of the 2900 reefs that make up the 2300km long by 290km wide Great Barrier Reef (AKA 70 million MCGs equivalence in area apparently!).

The Great Barrier Reef is so named because it is ‘great’, as in big, it is the second largest marine park in the world behind only the Hawaiian islands. It also acts as a ‘barrier’ or a natural breakwater between the Pacific Ocean and the coast of Australia. There are approximately 1500 species of fish, 600 species of coral, and many other beautiful creatures that call the Great Barrier Reef home including turtles, reef sharks and stingrays. It is one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

Whilst the reef is still beautiful, it has been threatened more and more in recent years due to climate change. You’ve probably heard of the term ‘coral bleaching’ - I had before today too, but I didn’t know why it specifically happens. There is a particular type of algae that photosynthesises and provides the coral with oxygen and glucose that it needs to thrive and gain/maintain its colour. If the water is too warm, too cool or effected by weather events such as cyclones, the algae that usually produces oxygen and glucose produces and releases a toxin instead as a stress response. This is a bit like how our bodies release the hormone cortisol when we are stressed. As with us and cortisol, it is ok for a short period of time, but prolonged exposure to this toxin means the coral pushes the algae away and then doesn’t receive what it needs to continue to thrive and be colourful. It therefore becomes bleached and can even die as a result. Luckily many restoration efforts are being made, I just hope it is not too late.

Once at Agincourt Reef, we disembarked and walked over to Quicksilver’s permanent pontoon where we could store our bags and grab our gear. We donned Lycra suits, flippers, masks and snorkels and hopped into the water. The water temperature was 23 degrees, but I managed to still feel cold somehow and shivered a fair bit throughout!!

For the next 1.5 hours, Rob and I snorkelled around taking in colourful fish, coral and the goings on of life in the reef. It was magnificent. When Rob surfaced after a while he said “I think this is one of the best things I’ve ever done”. I’m so pleased he loved it and we could finally come, it was a great experience to share together!! We had a good laugh when we were looking at one particularly colourful fish remarking on its beauty, when it did a huuuuge poo! It was like it knew we were talking about it haha.

Then we had lunch (a buffet - what is this, 2019?! We certainly aren’t in Victoria anymore!!) before boarding a semi submersible boat that reminded me very much of the ‘Finding Nemo’ ride at Disneyland, but the scenes from this one’s windows were real!!

Finally, we got back in for a last hour of snorkelling. We had had a great day so far but were hoping to see a turtle and some clownfish. Rob had seen a turtle in the distance from the sub, but we were about to do even better than that.

Someone has been looking out for us this last week or so. First of all we got to come here which was amazing in itself, but we keep having fabulous luck with the weather and our experiences. We were near a snorkelling tour group when we heard the leader talking about ‘Finding Nemo’, and sure enough once they moved we were treated to seeing a mummy and daddy clownfish with a little baby (soooo cute, and not swimming away like cheeky Nemo!). Then the tour guide shouted to us that they had found a turtle. We spent our final half an hour bouncing back and forth between the green turtle and the clownfish family, who were about 20m apart. The turtle surfaced for air twice while we were following them, and it was so cool to be so nearby!! I even got a photo of Rob with the turtle near him.

The horn on the boat sounded and it was time to swim back. As we sailed back to Port Douglas the clouds descended and we once again felt very lucky that the weather had been sunny and allowed us good visibility all day. I should add though - the photos don’t do it justice. The further away from you the coral is, the worse the light filters so the bright colours I could see with my eyes don’t necessarily show up very well in the pictures. But they’re nice nonetheless, particularly for my $80 2014 era waterproof camera.

Tonight we are going out for dinner at a restaurant called Nautilus, which is very exclusive and hard to get into. We put our names on a waiting list once Sydney went into lockdown as it was booked out months in advance and we figured there would be cancellations. They called us yesterday so we get to go tonight. Can't wait!

Love to all,
Claire
Xoxox