Today was another big driving day! Up at 5, we left at 5.30 and set off for Milford Sound.
The drive there was just over 3.5 hours long. Rob drove the first 2 hours to Te Anau while I slept in the car. When I woke up the rain had set in as predicted. The forecast for today had looked shocking, 100% chance of rain all day and lots of cloud. A stark contrast to the weather we’ve had so far!
Along the way we stopped at a few sites. The first was Eglinton Valley viewpoint. After a quick look we jumped back in the car to avoid the rain. This area reminded me of Glen Nevis in Scotland. Then we went to Mirror Lakes, which unfortunately due to the rain didn’t live up to its name. Then we stopped at Knobbs Flat to read the information about avalanches in the area. The Fjordland National Park is very prone to avalanches, but technology monitoring has improved safety standards and predictions.
Then we had a quick stop at Monkeys Creek to drink some of the running fresh glacier water (yum!). Next we got to Homer Tunnel. In 1889, mountaineer W.H. Homer decided he wanted to build a tunnel in this area to make the Milford Sound area more accessible. In 1935 the government funded the tunnel and work began. Due to the depression, men desperate for work headed out there to a life of isolation (some with their families) to construct the tunnel. The project was held up due to an avalanche and World War II, but was opened in 1954. It’s an incredible 1207m in length and you have to wait at a traffic light before you can go in as it’s one way.
Our final stop before Milford Sound itself was the Chasm. Here we enjoyed a wet walk to the thunderous water crashing through rocks. Because of all the rainfall the water flow was massive!
We arrived in Milford Sound and walked to the ferry. Captain Cook sailed past Milford Sound (then called ‘Piopiotahi’ by the Maori people who had already discovered it) twice because it wasn’t visible fully from the open ocean. John Grono discovered it in 1823 and named it Milford after his birthplace in Wales. Technically it should be called a fjord (a glacial carved valley) instead of a Sound (a water carved valley). It’s 100m wide and up to 500m in depth at some points.
Donald Sutherland was the fjord’s first settler. He was called a hermit because until he married, he lived at the fjord alone back when it was only accessible by boat. He and his wife later built a 12 room accommodation house and showed a few hundred people around the Sound every year. Nowadays, 500,000 people tour the fjord each year. I’m glad there isn’t a hotel down there anymore, I think it would spoil the isolation.
We had booked an 11.15am cruise with Jucy. We had a fantastic 100 minute cruise. It was cold, cloudy and rainy at the start and we couldn’t help but feel a little disappointed. But luckily for us, it cleared and brightened as the cruise went on. We even got to go up on the top deck without getting too wet. Aside from when the driver took us over to two waterfalls and we got absolutely soaked!! But we figured why not, a bit of water never hurt anyone.
The weather gave me a huge sense of de ja vu for my Sognefjord cruise back in Norway in 2014. Just as beautiful and lucky to have waterfalls but then a slight clearing of rain to make it even more enjoyable. Our guide today actually said we had “perfect” weather and told us this was light rain for Milford (seemed pretty heavy to me!).
The bonus of the rain was all the rain dependent waterfalls along the sides of the fjord. There were heaps and they were beautiful! Some of them disappear mere hours after the rain stops. It was impressive having them all on show thanks to the rain.
We had great views on our cruise and went out to see the Tasman Sea. On the way back the wind was crazy cold (sometimes it gets up to 300km/h here and cruises are cancelled!), but we stayed outside. And it was worth it - first we saw some seals, then we saw some dolphins! They were using the force at the bow of the boat to grab a ride with us for a while.
We docked and then we started to head back to Queenstown. As we started to journey back, the fog descended once again and you couldn’t even see Mitre Peak anymore. We timed our cruise perfectly! As we kept going though we were treated to a tiny bit of sun and blue skies. We stopped at Mirror Lakes again and actually got to see the mirror effect this time. The only negative on the way back was when I drove around a corner and someone came whizzing around half of the wrong side of the road. Luckily I reacted quickly and we were ok. I honestly don’t know how some people get their licence!
Tonight in Queenstown is going to be a quiet night. Microwave Thai meals in the room and a cider or two. We’ve had an awesome day but we are both wrecked (and windburnt!).
Love to all
Claire
Xoxox
No comments:
Post a Comment